“Your Camera Takes Great Pictures”

We’ve all heard it. Many of us react negatively, assuming the connotation is that the picture they’re complimenting would have been created with the camera on autopilot. I seriously doubt that it is anyone’s real intention. People say this because they don’t take pictures and know nothing about cameras. I can’t imagine someone saying, “Your camera takes great pictures,” when that person knows a lot about cameras. If they do, they are trolling you. I’ve made snarky comments like, “Well, it ought to; it cost me a fortune!” and later regretted it. Honestly, it’s a compliment, take it. Don’t get hung up on the literal meaning. Doing so shows insecurity.

But that’s not what I want to talk about today. I want to talk about the other widely used phrase we all hear (and truth be told, I’ve uttered these words): “The best camera is the one you have with you…” Okay, sure, if you are presented with a once-in-a-lifetime moment that begs to be captured, any camera is better than no camera. But we all know that not all cameras are built the same. There are reasons beyond the quality of a digital camera sensor or film emulation that make the entire experience more enjoyable, capable, intuitive, etc.; the opposite is true. A poorly designed camera, unintuitive menu systems, and an ill-fitting grip can handicap you when it counts.

So, how do you find the right camera? I don’t believe there is a one-size-fits-all answer to this age-old question. While it’s conceivable that some people get lucky and find the right match when just starting, most of us have to buy and sell many cameras before finding a brand that suits us, but it doesn’t end there. There are so many questions one has to ask oneself about the kind of pictures one wants to make. Such as how swift and intuitive the process has to be to frame and capture the subject, or one’s comfort level when interacting with the subject matter they have chosen. In simpler terms, you must use the right tool for the job.

There are so many options these days, and often, many people already have the best choice for their needs built into their iPhones. Anything beyond that requires time, attention, and, most of all, passion. Yeah, it sounds cliche (and it is!), but it’s also true. You don’t buy a rangefinder to shoot a soccer game, and you don’t buy a Nikon Z9 to shoot street photography. You could, but for reasons you will eventually discover, having the right tool for the job makes all the difference.

So what’s my advice? Start with something you can build upon. I typically tell people to buy a used DSLR from one of the more well-known brands (Canon, Fuji, Nikon, Sony). As previously stated, you will likely buy many cameras before determining your needs. Don’t stress too much about purchasing the latest and greatest body. Buy into a brand that suits your tastes and start building up your lens group, because truth be told, that is where it counts.

“What lens should I buy?”

My recommendation for a first lens is a 50mm prime. Don’t buy a zoom lens. In my opinion, a zoom lens is a pro tool that can be used for specific jobs. I could continue, but I’ll save that for another post. You’re not shooting events and weddings yet, so don’t buy something that gives you too many options before you understand the use. Get a “nifty-fifty“, which is reasonably fast but an affordable 50mm prime with an aperture between 1.8 and 2.8. They are plentiful on the used market and can usually be nabbed for around $100. This is a solid investment that you will likely hold onto until you either break it or decide you want to invest in a more expensive version.

“Why 50mm?”

The most important thing when learning to take pictures (aside from iso, shutter speeds, and f-stops) is understanding focal length and how it renders your subject. Many subjects can be captured with a 50mm lens, and understanding that you can take a few steps forward or backward to get your subject in frame is a valuable lesson often obscured when starting with a zoom lens. A zoom lens makes it too easy to frame without considering how your subject will be rendered due to the focal length you are using. I will write more about this in the future, but I urge you to trust me for now. Between 35 and 70 mm is often called “normal” focal length. It offers a field of view that feels normal to how humans see the world, without lens distortion or compression.

Further considerations—There are several digital camera types currently on the market, and deciding where to start can be confusing. Let’s look at the options.

• DSLR—Digital Single Lens Reflex. This camera body type allows the user to see their subject through the lens using a viewfinder and a mirror that automatically retracts when the shutter is clicked. By today’s standards, this technology, while still great, is dated and sometimes distractingly loud. But the quality is still solid.
• Mirrorless—This name will undoubtedly only get more confusing as we move further past DSLRs as the mainstay in both professional and personal photography. Like the DSLR, this camera allows the user to see through the lens, but it uses a digital viewfinder without a mirror (hence the name). I am currently using this camera, and while there are some drawbacks, the benefits outweigh them. 
• Point and Shoot—As the name suggests, this is a more straightforward camera, typically designed to be a more user-friendly alternative. You do not have the option to change lenses with this type of camera. This does not mean that these cameras are bad or lesser than. P&S cameras are one of my favorite camera styles as they are easy to carry. The quality also runs the gamut from very bad to absolutely amazing. You will find options with fixed focal length and zoom options. Fixed focal length P&Ss are typically high quality and more expensive. 
• Rangefinder—The oldest style of 35mm camera, the rangefinder does not offer autofocus and can be pretty tricky for the novice user. The RF utilizes a dual window approach where one window is a viewfinder (you do not see through the lens), and the other has a “rangefinder” patch, which projects within the central viewfinder. To attain focus, a user must use the patch to align with the viewfinder area. While confusing and sometimes limiting, with practice, this can become a preferred method for some photographers, particularly street photographers.

So, where to begin? Choose a brand. Use your basest instincts and choose one based on aesthetics alone. Honestly, it probably doesn’t matter enough for there to be a better reason for your choice. When I first started, I chose a Nikon. I liked the aesthetic and recognized the name. I grew into and up with the brand. I’m satisfied. What matters most is the lens, or in popular photographic parlance, “glass.” Most camera bodies these days provide equal quality (in their respective class), and you can buy fantastic lenses for any camera that allows you to change them.

Here is a list of starter DSLRs from the big two popular brands, all under $500, and accompanying “nifty-fifties” to accompany them. I’d add other brands, but the options are increasingly limited for full-frame cameras, which is what I’m recommending here. You’re welcome!

https://www.adorama.com/us1902857.html

https://www.adorama.com/us1922426.html

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/803166943-USE/canon_2764b003_eos_5d_mark_ii.html

https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-ef-50mm-f-1-8-ii-standard-medium-telephoto-lens.html